Handcrafted Champagne : Maison Henriot

Recently, Champagne Henriot has been particularly covered by the specialized press. In February 2020 a highly talented new cellar Master has started a new path : Alice Tetienne. She is highly graduated and has worked for top wineries in Champagne : Laurent-Perrier and Krug (just to name a few).

What makes Alice Tetienne different or so special?

She is, obviously, in charge of the winemaking and blending process, but also responsible for the viticulture one, which is very rare. In other words she will have a eye on covercrops if needed or not, on ploughing in order to force the vines’ roots to dive deeper into the soil. Global warming is, unquestionably, another subject to handle primarily in the vineyard, and Alice is totally aware of this.  Her obsession is improving quality, and thus, crafting significantly more precise and terroir focused Champagne. Which could be, nowadays, one of the greatest challenge for Champagne Houses, by the way.

Maison Henriot was founded in 1808, by widow Appoline Henriot. It should be noted that 78% of all the planting in Champagne is covered by black grapes : Pinot Noir and also Pinot Meunier. Maison Henriot defines itself as a Chardonnay’s specialist. Therefore, most cuvées are chardonnay dominated and particularly their «Hemera» bottling!

Brut Souverain :

50% Chardonnay

45% Pinot Noir

5% Pinot Meunier

Tremendous Champagne, vinous and elegant. Generally overlooked.  Aged at least 3 years on the lees with less than 8gr/L of of sugar.

Blanc de Blancs :

100% Chardonnay

A white wine produced from white grapes! That is what «Blanc de Blancs means, as it has been mentioned before most champagne are elaborated from black grapes.

Here, the brightness of the Chardonnay combined with the minerality of some great terroirs comes through. 2/3 of the fruit is sourced in the Côtes des Blancs (1er Crus and Grand Crus), including Mesnil sur Oger and Avize! The Blanc de Blancs has been aged 4 to 5 years before to be released, and again there is less than 8 gr/L of residual sugars.

The style is fresh, elegant with discreet layers of complexity. A true Blanc de Blancs style!

Cuvée Hemera

First released with the 2005 vintage, «Cuvée Hemera» takes its name from the greek goddess of day and light. Due to such tribute, it is an exclusive blend of 6 Grand Crus :

• Mailly, Verzenay and Verzy (montagne de Reims)
• Chouilly, Avize and Mesnil-sur-Oger (Cotes des blancs)

It combines, equally, the strength and depth of the finest Pinot Noir with the brightness and elegance of the most sought-after chardonnay from La Côte des Blancs.

Differing from many other top cuvees in Champagne, Cuvée Hemera is aged in Maison Henriot, at least 12 years ont the lees. The result is mind blowing, or taste-buds blowing;-))

Complex, rich and elegant without losing freshness. It is like drinking an aged white burgundy with bubbles. A stunning experience, that needs delicate and noble dishes such as scallops, caviar or lobster.

Last but no least…

Cuvée 38

100% Chardonnay

100% Grand Cru

100% Cotes des Blancs

In 1990, Joseph Henriot had a vision that resulted in «cuvée 38». A perpetual blend, something that could recall the solera system in southern Spain. When older wines are «refreshed» with younger wines. This outstanding Blanc de Blancs sources its chardonnay exclusively from 4 of the finest Grand Crus :

• Chouilly
• Avize
• Oger
• Mesnil sur Oger

Hence, each year a portion of Chardonnay is added to the vat, named «Cuvée 38», capturing the essence of every vintage.

A limited edition, that exist solely in magnum.

To conclude, we are undoubtedly convinced and enchanted with Henriot’s great Champagne. Although, new blood, new ideas and vision can bring Henriot to a upper quality level. Can’t wait!

Wines From Rias baixas

Celtic country ubicated just in north-west Spain, Galicia is, actually, clearly one of the most dynamic wine producing region of Spain. So far, you will find 5 DO (denominación de Origen) that works principally with endemic varieties (and many of them shared with Portugal). In the past 20 years, the Galician wine scene has metamorphosed completely. Now, producers (especially smaller sized estate) are defending and promoting their beautiful wines thanks to a deeper understanding of their soil, grape varieties and clever cellar work!

Galicia enjoys a rather isolated situation within the Iberian peninsula. The «Sierra de los Ancares» to the east, the Atlantic ocean to the west and the Miño river that separates Galicia from the northern part of Portugal. Humid and warm (2000 hours of sun), some vineyards are using the pergola training system in order to promote aeration allowing to dry the grapes, thus avoiding cryptogamic diseases.

Diversity (soil, indigenous vareties, climates…)

Then the diversity, also, comes from the land (topography and soil), climates, training systems and cultivars. As a matter of fact, Galicia is proudly cultivating indigenous grape varieties and some of the most recognized are : Albariño, Godello, Treixadura, Mencia, Brancellao, Merenzao. Unlike many other Spanish wine regions that are elaborating wine from international varieties (Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot…)

DO Rias Baixas :

World-wide famous wine region for producing some light, crisp and semi-aromatic white.

Rias Baixas is covering more than 4000 has of vines, making it the largest DO in Galicia. It is divided in 5 sub-zones :

• Ribera de Ulla
• Val do Salnes (60% of total production)
• Soutomaior
• O Rosal
• Contado do Tea

Here the very poor soils are mainly granitic, sometimes covered with clay, sand or lime. Albariño is the main variety, it ripens early and it has a thick skin which helps to prevent cryptogamic diseases. Treixadura, Caiño blanco, Godello, loureira  and Torrontes (also known as Fernao Pires or Maria Gomez in Portugal).

As, some red varieties are also planted for instance Mencia, Brancellao, souson, caino tinto, but are seldom seen and tasted:-)) with just46 has of vines, Ribera de Ulla is mostly planted with red varieties.

If Albariño is mentioned on the label, then the wine must contain at least 70% of it.

Palacio de Fefiñanes

Palacio de Fefiñanes is an historic producer, being one of the first to bottled his own production. (a bit like Marquis d’Angerville in Burgundy)

Their style is dry, crisp and clean. Their entry level is dry medium-bodied white that offer a fresh mouthwatering nose. Apples, citrus and apricot. The mid palate is complex and refreshing. Long with a great cleansing effect due to a great acidity.

Fefiñanes III años is a serious wine complex white wine, that combines freshness, depth and aromatic complexity. A gastronomic pleasure, that has been aged on the lees for at least 7 to 9 months. it is then released 3 years after it year of production or vintage. The result is mind blowing and elegant.

Muesli, honey, ripe fruits such as apricot and citrus. Very persistent, rich and lingering. Probably one of the most interesting «Aged» albariño, as they are not using oak to bring layers of complexity.

Compañia de Vinos Trico

Compañia de Vinos Trico is a rather small producer located in the Contado de Tea sub-area, and enjoys a warmer climate than Fefiñanes which is producing in Cambados (closer to the coast). Here several wines are elaborated. Tabla de Sumar is an unusual creamy, rich and full-bodied Albariño. Unoaked but highly complex with some.

Significantly different Trico is their flagship wine. Aged on the lees for a whole year as well as another full year in bottle before to be released. The resulting wine is a gastronomic pleasure, ideal for grilled scallops or quality fish and chips!

Bruised apples, apricot and citrus. The lee-aging influence is not overwhelming but its presence bring depth and a highly seductive oily texture. Fresh and balance.

To Conclude, be sure that soon, we will post about Ribeiro and Ribera Sacra. Great wines, still fresh but slightly fuller-bodied.

Jean Claude Berrouet, 44 years in Château Pétrus

Last year, I acquired  a few books and 2 of them mentioned Jean Claude Berrouet and his «faith» in terroir. The first one is the «Wine Bible» by Karen Mcneil, which is a great up to date book on wine – world-wide, that I actively recommend to anyone. The second one is the superb «Italy’s native wine grape terroir» by the super talented and hugely dynamic (especially on instagram) Ian d’Agata. Nonetheless, Jean Claude Berrouet is rather discreet, humble and poetic, some qualities that are pretty rare in our industry.

He studied oenology in Bordeaux, and started to work for Jean Pierre Moueix in 1964. Jean Pierre Moueix is an important French negociant based around Libourne, or the so-called right bank :

• Château Pétrus
• Château Fleur-Pétrus
• Château Trotanoy
• Château Hosanna
• Château Bel-Morange…

And Dominus Estate in Napa Valley, California.

In various interview, Jean Claude Berrouet admits that working and being in charge of so many top estates would be absolutely impossible nowadays. If my memory is correct, Jean Claude has collaborated with the wine legend : Emile Peynaud, for the 2 first vintages. It should be noted that Peynaud’s influence is recognized by Jean Claude Berrouet himself. As result he favors elegance over extraction. Here, you will find a great interview that took place in Bordeaux, at «La Cité du Vin» – in French :

In 2007, Olivier Berrouet, his son, vinifies Château Pétrus and Jean Claude initiate a new life. As a result, he is consulting in various country such as China (Ch. Ronzi), Spain, Argentina, Israel…

However, what you probably don’t know is the hidden part of the iceberg ;-)) Since the mid 80’s Jean Claude owns 2 properties in Bordeaux (he also produces wine in is homeland, IROULEGUY, under the Herri Mina ‘s brand) Jean-François Berrouet, his other son, manage both estates :

Château Samion 2016

100% merlot (old vines)

2Ha

Aged in Oak, 20 months (15% New)

Although 1979 was the first vintage to be released,  Jean Claude Berrouet owns it since 1985. 100% merlot, and the vines are 45 years old (average). The style is elegant, round and richer than Vieux Château Saint André, especially if the wines are not matured. Although highly enjoyable in its youth, it does keep pretty well. Often beautiful when it reaches 8/10 years old.

We also have a few magums.

22.50 Euros a Bottle

50.00 Euros a Magnum

Vieux Château Saint André 2015

12ha (Old vines)

85% Merlot

15% Cabernet Franc

Aged in Oak, 15% new.

Mostly merlot, completed with cabernet Franc. It yields a more traditional and austere wine compared to Château Samion. On the other hand, Vieux Château Saint André is an excellent keeper, in the best vintages it can be easily cellared up to 20 years.

18.75 Euros a Botlle

40.00 Euros Magnum

If you are interested to acquire a few bottles, please do contact us!

Juan Gil Monastrell : Best value?

As wine merchant, we are always looking, searching, seeking wines that offer great value! for us and for our clients. Last week, Bertrand Ferré  and I, were tasting blind randomly our most popular range. The overall quality was rather impressive:-)), nonetheless 1 bottle shone over the others! for the stunning price of 6.50 Euros a bottle.

Juan Gil Estate is surely one of the most dynamic producer in Spain, as they are producing wines in many other well-know wine regions such as : Montsant, Rias Baixas, Almansa, Campo de Borja, Calatayud… and obvioulsy Jumilla.

Leading the path to quality, especially, in Jumilla which has now gain fame for producing some top notch red wine from Monastrell, Juan Gil estate understood, pretty well, what some people were looking for!

Their aim is to elaborate big and bold wines that offer stunning value, packed with fruit and that deliver immediate pleasure. Well, that is exactly what we tasted last week!!!

Aromatic nose of ripe strawberries and figs with a gentle smoky character. Full-bodied, rich with glyceric mouthfeel that is balanced thanks to a great and refreshing acidity. Persistent and long, it is reminiscent of some style of wines you could find in Priorat ( and sometime Ribera del Duero) that would cost 3 times its price.

If you love Zinfandel from California, or some big Shiraz from Coonawarra do not hesitate : Juan Gil Yellow Label is your wine.

To conclude, if you are into big, bold, sunshine wines, check our selection of Jumilla’s wines.

https://classic-vins.com/?s=jumilla

French Wine Dinner, at Odetti Bistro

This Wednesday,  a French Wine Dinner will take place at Bistro Odetti, in Escaldes-Engordany!

Jose Antonio Guillermo, the owner, run the place since last year with Anna (his wife) and Cathy (his sister)… I guess their favorite work song is : «We are family» – Sister Sledge

Joke apart, Jose Antonio is well-known in Andorra for being a great Sommelier, he was actually the sommelier of the star Michelin Restaurant Aquarius, that has unfortunately closed its doors some years ago. He is also fascinated about food, and he operates sometimes in the kitchen.

On wednesday the 23rd, we will be presenting 4 different French wines :

First of all, we will start with Champagne, obviously, one the most unique and emblematic wine from France! Funded in 1584, in Aÿ, Champagne Gosset is the oldest wine house in Champagne. it is racy champagne, delicate and fresh (No malo-lactic, like Champagne Salon). An ideal companion for starting a meal. Champagne being naturally «umami» or savory, is probably on of the most the versatile wine to match food with.

Then, we will travel to Provence! it is said that Provence has special light, well more 3000 hours per year, that will explain it. 89% of the local production is dedicated to Rosé, another 7% to red, and only 4% represents white wine production. Château Grand Boise, is nested inland, near the Saint-Victoire Mountain range, not far from Palette (Château Simone). Of course, they do elaborate Rosé, but recently we have discovered this amazing southern wine yielded entirely from Vermentino.

Here, the climate is more continental, cooler, and on the top of it the parcel of Vermentino is enjoying a northern exposure, helping to ensure a clean, fresh, natural crisp style. A true discovery!

With the main course, a Saint-Emilion Grand Cru from the sublime 2015 will exhibit its strength and elegance.

Château Simard is owned by the Vauthier family, which is the actual owner of the great Château Ausone.

Although being a blend, Château Simard is Merlot dominated situated on the «slopes» or Côtes of Saint-Emilion. His tremendous solar exposure enhances the highly pleasant aromatic side of merlot, that is complemented with Cabernet Franc. The oak treatment is discreet, which bring a certain balance to this beautiful wine.

We will conclude with a great wine from Sauternes, within the Fargues‘ commune, Château Fontaine. A rather distinguished and complex sweet wine produced mainly with Semillon. Rich, intense with a great acidity that brings length and balance. Apricot, honey, orange peel aroma on the palate, lingering finish…

For this great wine tasting Classic Vins thanks Bistro Odetti, for helping us in organizing this French Wine Dinner in Andorra. We are sure that the evening will be success, and that it will be an event to repeat as soon as possible.

Cheers,